I have been thinking about this trip a lot because it was a different surftrip. It was a trip really shared.
Most of these trips, you would have noticed, I went exploring on my own. Got into trouble on my own and learned more about myself than I ever imagined. I was really hesitant to invite anyone into this space. I got so comfortable with being alone that I think I forgot how good it was to have people I love with me. So this time, without any thought my best friend, said, "Let’s go surfing together."
Pascal works harder than anyone else I know and his vacations are precious, so doing this with me was one of the best gifts I could ask for but my mind wasn’t there. I was super worried about work. I believe that he might have noticed this and sorted this trip out, but it could also be because he needed a real vacation too. He did some searching the day before on the best surf instructors, usually that’s my job, but he’s like me (but he's French and a dude), so he knows how to find what we need. It was his first or second time surfing which meant he needed to go to a beginner class. I am technically supposed to be better than a beginner, but in all honestly I felt like I couldn’t even get my ego out to justify that. So this time I took up Shoshin, the buddhist word for "beginners mind".
Day 1. We met the Hastea crew. Our first instructor, Julian went through all the basics. But most importantly he let us ride the wave lying down first. This was the second time in all my courses that I met an instructor who let us feel the wave before he asked us to stand. So we did that for 10 minutes and then he said, "Once you feel comfortable try to stand." I am not sure if it was the dizziness from my illness or his amazingly calm personality, but it felt like I was in a dream. A quiet dream, of no pressure, just feeling the ocean and Pascal nearby. Of course most of us couldn’t stand, so we went back to the beach and he taught us: push up, downward dog, back foot planted and then front font, squat and ride the wave.
The second session we had with Claire. The water was choppy, winds onshore, really hard to see where to be to catch the wave. I was tired, angry and anxious about the waves. But she was positive, singing and kept us all in good spirits even though the waves were having a bad day and frankly so was I. Pascal kept my head in the water, we were egging each other on and laughing. I loved watching him surf, and trying to get waves with him. We had a few other students in the class and since he is a fast learner to say the least, all I had to do was tell him which wave to catch. It was cool that I could see the waves that were ridable, ok so not so beginner then.
In the evening, Pascal and I tried to go clubbing, but that was uneventful. So we drank in an empty bar while they played 90s pop and we laughed uncontrollably. Actually we always know how to find trouble, so we spent most of our sunsets at Etxola Bibi.
On our last session we went out with Pierre. We had to paddle to find and catch the waves now, they were breaking everywhere. I was still coughing and couldn’t catch every wave, weak and still unwell. But again his calmness and focus kept my mind on one thing; catch the wave and ride the green. We did that. Everyone caught waves, everyone was happy. Everyone was relaxed. There is something really special about these group of instructors. How in the world were they able to make us feel so good when everything else around us seemed to be breaking everywhere.
Other than the surf, Pascal and I ate, drank, argued about life, laughed, and basked in the sun for hours. We had rainbow brunches at Milwaukee Cafe and ate way too much cake and bad things at every good cafe around.
I had breakfast a few times at Les Halles. I felt very much like I lived in this little surf town, eating with everyone else from Biarritz and drinking tea (ok so not really because they were having proper coffee).
One day I was mentally drained from all the things I was worried about at work and life, so I sat at Le Surfing from 11am - 6pm. I was meant to work but instead I just sat and watched the sun go from mid sky to sunset. I got three shades darker and talked to people passing by. It is one of the most humbling and relaxing moments. When Pascal showed up for our sunset wine, I was so happy to see him and we got into more trouble that night at Le Bar Jean. The owner and staff were, well, very nice.
So let’s see, this was the first time since the Barbados trip I was not alone, and it was incredible. I love Pascal, but now we have another special bond, we surfed together. OH! what beautiful feeling it is to surf with your bestfriend and get into trouble in a little French surf town.
So Biarritz, done.. next… stay tuned.
With Love from Stockholm. xoxo