Unlike surf trips, I only get 10 rants, ever!
This year I found something where it was more about the process than what I could produce, and I became obsessed. I spent all my money (as a scientist I make nothing) but I am finally learning something new every time I get into the water. The best part; there is no end.
Let’s be honest here… It took me 8 surf trips and several classes to get to the point where I was standing more than I was falling, and even so, if I had a mentally shitty day, I would ungraciously slide off the back of the board and get spat back out.
But as I say in my Instagram posts 'surf trips x/∞'. I have no end goal here. It’s all in the process. I like falling, to be honest. Every time I wipeout and I am not super scared to hurry back to the beach or I can duck under the wave and wait a bit before paddling out, or notice I am drifting and not panic, or even try to turn the board around and slip off the back (I said I was a newbie) and not die, I am a happy human. The point here is this; don’t let the Instagram posts of those people hitting the lips of those huge waves like it was second nature to picking up a can of beer fool you. It is hard work. Some people get the hang of it quickly, others don't. I took most of the year to get to the point where maybe, maybe this weekend I will go out alone (I wrote this before O'ahu). Just me and a rental board- I am literally writing this to hold myself accountable to doing it. But I am still on a soft top/foam board. I am a proud newbie, I am proud to be part of the process. Maybe one day I will be on a smaller board (thanks in advance LevelUP) but it doesn’t matter to me. I just want to get out in the water and be free. If I catch a wave in the meantime, it’s a bonus.
Love the process and take care of your heart xoxoxo